Half-sun skirt. Do-it-yourself pattern step by step: calculation, fabric consumption. Photo, how to sew a skirt with an elastic band, a yoke, with a belt, one seam, tulle, flared, for a girl

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Despite the fact that all types of clothing are equally needed in a woman's wardrobe, it is the skirt that preserves femininity. Below are instructions for sewing a half-sun skirt with your own hands step by step. Patterns, all calculations that are necessary in the process of work are also attached.

The advantages of a half-sun skirt

Visual:

such a skirt does not hinder movement (free silhouette);
colors and ornaments can be varied;
a skirt of this cut visually increases the volume of the chest, while reducing the waist.

Manufacturing:

any kind of fabric is suitable for sewing;
additional production of drawings and patterns is not required;
the skirt has no grooves.

Differences from the sun skirt

A half-sun skirt (a do-it-yourself pattern is presented step by step below) has common features with a sun skirt, so some novice seamstresses get confused in the patterns of a half-sun skirt and a sun skirt.

There are several differences that make the difference clear:

Length. The half-sun skirt is shorter.
Style. The sun skirt is more fluffy.
Fit. For a pattern of a half-sun skirt, you can limit yourself to one single piece.

Necessary tools for sewing

When planning sewing a half-sun skirt, you need to prepare all the required tools. A beginner in this business should give preference to fabrics with less catchy ornaments, since they require more effort in preparing patterns.

For work you need to prepare:

Sewing machine.
Sewing machine needles.
Overlock.
Sewing needles for hand sewing.
Thimble.
Tailor's pins.
Cloth cutter or scissors.
Tailor's chalk.
A centimeter tape.
Ruler with slider.
A wide wooden ruler.
Threads for sewing machines, as well as for hand sewing.

The choice of fabric for sewing

Any fabric is suitable for sewing a half-sun skirt. When choosing a material for making a summer version, it should be borne in mind that a light warm wind is able to raise the hem of an outfit, so you should take this nuance into account and select the appropriate fabric or take care of the presence of lining fabric for the outfit.

Chiffon can be used as a lining. He will cover the necessary areas from view. It is enough to process the edge (cut) with an overlock.

For the semi-half skirt itself for the summer period, the following are suitable:

silk;
cotton fabric;
synthetic canvas.

For other seasons, you can use the same materials, as well as woolen and natural fiber fabrics.

How much fabric is needed

In order to calculate the size of the fabric for sewing a skirt, you need to take measurements. You also need to decide: with how many seams the outfit will be made with: with 1 or 2.

An example of calculating a half-sun skirt with one seam:

FROM = Art. * 1.4 (OT - waist circumference; St. - waist semi-circumference; 1.4 - coefficient for finding the cut.
TB = 16-18 cm (TB - height from hips to waist).
TH = Du. (skirt length).
There are 3 arcs with radii: OT, ABOUT, ON (OT - waist circumference, ABOUT - hip circumference, OH - bottom circumference).

For a skirt with one seam, it is better to purchase a lint-free fabric. If, when taking measurements, it turns out that there is a very big difference between the waist and the hips, you can hide this with the help of hidden undercuts.

Calculating the amount of fabric for a skirt with two seams

FROM = 0.64 * ST. (OT - waist circumference; 0.64 - coefficient for calculations; St - half of the waist circumference.
TH = Du.
There are 2 arcs with radii: OT and OH.

For more accurate measurements and further calculations, the waistline is raised 1.75 cm higher, and the bottom itself is reduced by 3.5 cm.

Roughly for sewing, you need a square piece (for example: 140 * 140 or 150 * 150 cm). A more accurate size of the canvas is calculated according to the above schemes.

Preparing the fabric for cutting

For cutting, the fabric (square) is folded at an angle of 45^about, combining the hem with the weft thread. It is best to remove (cut) the edge by 1 cm. After that, proceed to drawing the necessary waist from the calculations: waist, hips, bottom. To draw lines, be sure to use rulers and a measuring tape.

First, you need to inspect the fabric, if there are wrinkles on it - it is worth smoothing them out, as they can affect the quality of drawing lines and further sewing.

Calculating the radius of the circle for drawing the waist

A corner is drawn on the left.
A mark is put with the number 1.
It is required to make calculations (example below):
If FROM = 73 cm, then Art. = 36.5 cm.
Next comes the calculation of the radius for the waist: R1 = 0.64 * 36.5 = 23.4 cm (for a skirt with 2 seams; with 1 seam the conversion factor is 1.4).
The resulting value is plotted from point 1. This must be repeated several times. After that, the resulting points are smoothly connected - this will be the waist line. The points on the axes (shown in the picture) are marked with numbers 2 and 3.

Calculation for the formation of the hem line

For example: it is planned that the half-sun skirt will be 40 cm long, with 2 seams:

The calculation of the radius for laying the very bottom is done: R2 = 40 + 23.4 (based on the waist) = 63.4 cm.
The calculated value is plotted from the point with the number 1.
The same procedure is done from point 1 through marks 2 and 3.
Axes are drawn.
Points 4 and 5 are marked.
The marked new points are connected to each other.
Recheck the distance from points 2 to 4 and from 3 to 5. It should be the same and equal to R2 (picture above).

Calculation for folds

For a half-sun skirt, the depth (width) of the fold will be 6 cm:

6 + 6 + 12 cm.
If FROM = 73 cm, OB = 100 cm, and Du = 60 cm.
The increase in folds: Fri = 2 cm (at the waist), PB = 3 cm (at the hips). The increase taking into account the thickness of the folds themselves.

Semi-sun skirt pattern. Step-by-step instructions for beginners

The first step is to take measurements:

Art. - half the circumference of the waist. Correct measurement - look at the picture.
Sat. - half of the hips. Measurement is taken through both points of the protruding buttocks.
Di. (Dis.) - product height.
Dlb. –Distance (height) from hips to waist.

Important! All measurements are taken in underwear, without shoes.

Using the measurements taken, it is necessary to calculate the radii.
All calculated parameters are applied to the fabric.
For the first cut, it is worth additionally drawing allowance lines, along which a pattern of the future half-sun skirt is cut.
All allowances are processed with an overlock so that the fabric does not “crumble”.
Then the processed edges are ironed out.
The skirt is sewn along the main lines of the pattern.
The belt is sewn on (if the model was chosen with it) or the bend for the elastic is sewn.
The finished product is ironed and ready to wear.

Skirt belt

To determine the required length of the belt - for these purposes, the size of the waist circumference is taken for calculations.
After that, the required amount of fabric for a part of the product is calculated according to the formulas:

A = From + 2 + 3, where:

A is the required length of the belt;
From - waist circumference;
2 - the number of centimeters for allowances;
3 - the required length of the fabric (cm) to stretch.

A x W, where:

A is the length of the belt;
W - width (it is deposited twice, as the fabric is folded).
The calculated parameters are applied to the fabric, making small allowances. An example of cutting a belt: if the width should be 3 cm, then the cutting of the belt turns out to be 6 cm, + 2 cm for folds and allowances. As a result, according to the pattern, the width of the piece of fabric should be 8 cm.
The workpiece is cut according to the allowances.

Belt processing

The edges of the fabric are processed with an overlock or sewing machine with a zigzag stitch so that the belt does not crumble.
To prevent the fabric from slipping, a strip of adhesive lining is cut out and glued in the center of the belt.
A seam is made on the side for a zipper.

How to sew a belt to a half-sun skirt

The belt is sewn into place to the skirt, applying the front part to the waist line.
A hidden zipper is sewn into place.
Half-sun skirt. Sewing a secret zipper into a pattern with your own hands step by step
The edge of the zipper is fixed with a thread, the excess length is cut off.
The finished skirt with a belt must be ironed and checked for the quality of the seams.

Half-sun skirt with elastic

A skirt with an elastic band is easier to put on than on a belt. In order to preserve this function, it is necessary, when cutting out, to increase the circumference at the site of the future waist, increase it by at least 15 cm (if the fabric has the ability to stretch on its own), if the fabric is too rough, it is necessary to postpone additionally - 20, or even 25 cm.

You also need to take into account the number of folds. If a large number of them are planned, then the above amount of tissue will be small, it will need to be increased by 2 times more.

1. You need to calculate the required amount of fabric as follows:

Pt = Di x 2+ R x 2 + 10 cm.
RT is the total consumption of the web.
R is the radius of the waist.
Di is the length of the product.

When using a canvas with a pattern or a cage, more fabric will be required for the pattern than will be calculated, since the ornament can move along the seam.

2. The calculation of the location of the radii of the circles is carried out. Everything is calculated according to the formula:

R = From / 3.14

From. - Waist circumference.

3. For convenience, a table is proposed, where the calculations of the radii of the circles for a half-sun skirt with an elastic band have already been carried out:

For ease of cutting, the fabric is folded in half (how to do it correctly - shown in the picture above).
From the formed corner, ½ circle of radius is drawn to the central part of the canvas.
After that, the arc can be enlarged to the required size.
Lateral lines and in the center are laid down.
An arc of the lower edge of the skirt is drawn.
A blank is cut out according to the pattern.

Example of a blade after cutting:

After checking the entire pattern for details, you can start sewing. Particular attention should be paid to the side seam.
The seam must be swept gently, especially if the fabric is patterned.
All edges of the canvas should be finished by hand or with an overlock. In this case, each of the edges is folded back, and all allowances are pressed against the seams.
The edge is processed after a day or two. This is necessary for the product to sag and level. The skirt is fixed to hangers with clothespins at an angle of 45^about... Positioned in this way, the product will be able to stretch and get the desired shape.
Before direct stitching, a fitting is carried out. Excess fabric is removed after applying a new line to the bottom of the skirt.
After that, the edge is processed, and then stitched.

Elastic insertion options:

The elastic is sewn directly onto the fabric itself along the waist line.
A belt is made, where the elastic is inserted later.

These are the nuances of how to sew a skirt with an elastic band?

Half-length skirt

One of the most popular types of semi-sun skirts is the floor-length cut. Such an outfit fits well on any figure, hiding flaws and emphasizing advantages.

A half-sun skirt (do-it-yourself pattern step by step below), unlike other floor-length styles, has its own cutting and sewing features:

The product is cut out on an unfolded panel, and not folded in half.
At the very edge, the diameter and length of the future skirt are marked.
After that, the center is located, an arc looms from it under the waist.
On the other side (edge), a small triangle is cut so that the seam, which will be located in the middle, is not pulled together.
A pattern is cut along the applied arcs.
The fabric for the skirt is sewn.
The belt is being made.
All parts of the skirt are sewn together.
It remains to iron and wear the product.

With folds

The first step is to take all the necessary measurements.
All calculations are made on them in accordance with the selected style, taking into account all allowances.
A half-sun skirt (a do-it-yourself pattern is made step by step, as shown in the picture) begins with the modeling stage - for this, all arcs and lines are drawn.
Then the center of the panel of the front and rear shelves is determined (everything is shown in the figure).
Now you need to decide on the placement of the fastener, as well as the fold. In an arc, 3 cm is deposited on a zipper (shown in the figure). This is done on both sides.
After that, an arc is placed after 6 cm and a notch is made. Place to fold.
On the rear shelf, you need to measure the distance along the arc itself (in the picture, the back part is shaded).
From the center of the rear part, the same distance is laid on both sides, determining the location of the remaining folds (in the figure, "Stage 2 of modeling").
The waistline and the hemline are finally adjusted.
After all the necessary drawings have been carried out, you can start transferring the pattern to the fabric, if the pattern was prepared on paper (this can be done in separate parts).
During the sewing process, you can grind the seams so that they are hidden in the folds themselves. This will eliminate the seams on the sides.
Finally, a belt is cut out and made. Sewn into place.

Single seam

How to make measurements for sewing a skirt with one seam and make calculations for the required amount of fabric - described above.
A half-sun skirt (the do-it-yourself pattern is described step by step above) in this case is easy to sew because the drawing can be applied directly to the fabric, but if there are any doubts about the calculations, it is better to make a blank on paper, and then transfer it to a cloth.
When transferring lines for cutting out onto fabric, the canvas folds in half.
All necessary lines are laid from the upper corner.
It should be remembered about the allowances at the waist, the bottom - 1.5-2 cm and the side seam 1-2 cm.
The finished pattern is cut from the cloth.
Stapled.
A belt or elastic is sewn on.

With two seams

A semi-sun skirt with two seams is a little more difficult to make than with one, but the product turns out to be beautiful and graceful.

Do-it-yourself patterns explain its step-by-step implementation:

It all starts with taking measurements and calculations.
After that, patterns are made on paper or a drawing is immediately applied to the fabric.
2 parts are made (picture above).
After the drawing is transferred to the canvas, a skirt pattern is cut out of it.
Depending on the style, a belt pattern or an elastic insert is made.
All prepared parts of the skirt are sewn together.
At the end, iron the finished product.

How to shorten the bottom of a sun skirt

To shorten the item, you need a ruler, chalk and scissors. After sewing, the skirt may sag, so over time you have to make a fit.

You need to wear a skirt and shoes (preferably with a heel).
The assistant will measure the bottom of the skirt and apply serifs every 3-5 cm.
After that, the skirt must be removed and carefully distributed on a flat surface.
The ruler measures the bottom and draws a new arc.
The excess tissue is cut off.
The hem is machined.
The seams are grinded along the cut.

Fitting the bottom of the skirt-sun

The sun skirt is sewn from a circle, but can be made of several parts:

Every detail is turned around the edges.
Edges are processed with a zigzag or overlock.
The joints with another part (belt, zipper) are bent and ironed.

How to hem the bottom of a skirt

The lower part of the skirt is bent neatly, as shown in the picture. The fold is made only 1-1.5 cm. You can make a narrower fold if the fabric is dense.
The fabric is secured with pins along the entire arc.
It is carefully stitched on a typewriter.
For convenience, you can first walk along the bend with an iron.

A flared skirt, half-sun or sun is sewn in the same way.

How to sew a zipper into a skirt

The lock is sewn either on the side or behind the skirt.

Sewing technology does not change from location:

The fabric (skirt blank) needs to be folded in half.
An allowance of 1-1.5 cm is made. It is fixed with pins or ironed on.
The zipper is applied in the unzipped state and the marking is done.
A lock is sewn along the applied contour by hand or is attached to the fabric with pins.
Sewn on a typewriter from the seamy side.
The bottom of the zipper is clamped with a thread so that the tongue does not jump.
The excess length of the lock is cut off.
The performance of the lightning is checked.

How to sew a half-sun skirt for a girl

A semi-sun skirt (a do-it-yourself pattern is available step by step at the beginning of the article) - the process of sewing an option for a girl with an elastic band will be described below. How to take measurements and make calculations for patterns is indicated above.

The prepared sewing pattern is turned around the edges.
The decorative elastic is measured directly on the child so that the little yoke is comfortable and the tummy is not pinched. You can cut it into 2 pieces, or you can use it whole.
A skirt pattern is sewn.
An elastic band is applied to the upper arch and fixed. Then it is sewn on a sewing machine. At the same time, it is very important to tighten the elastic well.
A thin bend is made from below (0.5-0.7 cm) and fixed with a machine stitch.

You can sew a beautiful tulle skirt in the same way.

Preparing a skirt for fitting

Try-ons are carried out several times, since the fabric has the properties of stretching in the process of working with it. The fitting is carried out after the sewing itself.

The final fitting takes place in a couple of days, during which time the product is being prepared:

The skirt is washed and dried.
It is ironed out, each fold and seam must lie flat.
For a day, it is hung on a hanger so that the fabric takes the desired shape.
If necessary, it is smoothed again with an iron.

The final fitting allows you to take a closer look at the flaws, if any.

For the manufacture of a half-sun skirt with your own hands, several patterns are given: calculation, fabric consumption, fit. To make an outfit, it remains to follow the selected sewing instructions step by step.

Article design: Vladimir the Great

Video: How to sew a half-sun skirt

Semi-sun skirt pattern in 5 minutes:

Half-sun skirt: do-it-yourself pattern step by step, calculation, fabric consumption. How to sew on an elastic band, a yoke, with a belt, one seam, tulle, flared, for a girl